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Iroulegy in Winter

Bandol and Friends

When was the last time you drank Bandol, or Cassis Blanc… or Iroulegy for that matter? If you’re like me, until a few months ago when I received an invitation to lunch with Reynald Delille of Domaine de Terrebrune in Bandol, it may have been quite awhile, too long, perhaps. As I enjoyed Delille’s wines, the young, floral Bandol Rouge from the beautiful 2006 vintage as well as older vintages going back several decades, I wondered why Bandol wasn’t more of a staple in my home.

Here at CSW, we tend to drink lots wines from Beaujolais, Burgundy, Loire Valley, and Jura (at least if you’re me). Of course, this isn’t all we drink and we like to keep our minds and palates open, but these are the regions where many of our hearts lie. Thus it becomes easy to forget about the host of wonderful wines produced in the south of France, especially in lesser know appellations (I’m not talking Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Margaux here). These pockets of vinous greatness aren’t contiguous; they range from Provence to the far reaches of southwestern France, but they are united in that they generate some of the most interesting wines the south has to offer.

These are wines that combat the lurking and insidious notion that southern wines are heavy and somehow fail to balance their alcoholic weight with sufficient acidity. Balanced and essentially southern, each of these wines seems to bear its origin with aplomb- the iodine notes of Mourvedre grown by the Mediterranean to the ample tannins of Tannat and Cabernet ripening in the long, warm autumn sun of the southwest. It gives me great pleasure to recommend a handful of the elegant, terroir-driven southern wines that have stolen a piece of my cool-climate wine loving heart for your drinking enjoyment. In keeping with our philosophy, all of these wines are the result of low-impact, responsible farming in the vineyards and low-intervention winemaking in the cellar. -msb

 

Items Mentioned in this Article:

 
Misc. France

Terrebrune 2006 Bandol Rouge

My love affair with this Domaine began at lunch with Reynald Delille. Domaine de Terrebrune lies in the far southeastern corner of Bandol, quite close to the Mediterranean, which gives a distinct iodine quality to the wines. Delille is a second generation vigneron who has done much for the domaine since he took it over from his father. He employs organic practices in the vineyard (easy to do in Provence because of the hot, arid climate) and manipulates little in the cellar. The wines see a long elevage, spending 20 months in foudre and another 18 in bottle in the cellar. This is an elegant style of Bandol, particularly in the excellent '06 vintage. The wine shows dark floral fruits, the telltale animal quality of Mourvedre, and warm soil but without the alcoholic heat or raisin-y notes that afflict many southern Rhone wines. It's a wine that can easily be enjoyed now but has great potential in the cellar. -msb
red | 28 in stock | Organic | $33.99

Gaussen 2009 Bandol Rose

Jean-Pierre Gaussen is a very traditional vigneron in central Bandol. He and his wife have farmed their 12-hectare domaine without the use of pesticides and fertilizers since the '60s. They insist on hand-harvesting and are, essentially, organic but resistant to the notion of certification for promotional purposes. This is a full-bodied and animal style of Bandol Rose that has more in common with Pradeaux than with Tempier or Pibarnon. A blend of equal parts Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Grenache, the nose offers notes of licorice and mint and the finish has abundant red berry notes. -msb
pink | 42 in stock | $18.99

Val Bruyere 2008 Cassis

Cassis, not to be confused with the black currant flavored liquor, is a tiny Mediterranean appellation for white and rose wine. The white wines are blends, in this case of the following: Clairette, Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc. Who can forget Kermit Lynch's words about Cassis Blanc: "most intriguing is its combination of unctuousness and nervosity?" The wine has rich, powdery coconut notes and voluptuous ripe fruit with underlying shell-y minerality. On the palate, this wine might remind the drinker of a Rhone wine but with the brisk tang and crisp acidity imparted by breezes of the nearby Mediterranean. -msb
white | 22 in stock | Organic | $19.99

Ilarria 2007 Irouleguy Tradition

Iroulegy is the southwestern most appellation in France, nestled in the green rolling hills of French Basque country where vines have been cultivated since the 11th Century. The soils here are sand and clay, rich with iron. This is a delicious blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Tannat from a great organic estate run by Peio Espil. Low yields and great vineyard work give this elegant medium-bodied wine earthy strawberry fruit and subtle hints of spice as well as black fruits from the Tannat. It benefits from decanting if drinking now and will improve for 6 to 8 years in the cellar. The wine has characteristics of Bordeaux but with a rustic edge and uncanny ability to pair well with hard sheep's milk cheese. -msb
red | 3 in stock | Organic | $19.99

Ilarria 2009 Irouleguy Rose

This is a very full-bodied Rose from a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Tannat grown on limestone and schiste soil. The nose offers very deep berry fruits such as currant and raspberry, all of which carry through to the palate, which is both fruity and earthy. This is a serious, even tannic Rose, showing its Tannat component in its structure. -msb
pink | 67 in stock | Organic | $17.99

Ilarria 2009 Irouleguy Blanc

This wine is made from a blend of Petit Manseng and Petit Corbu, names that will sound familiar if you're a lover of Juracon. Hailing from a property that is about five miles from the Spanish border in French Basque Country, these Mansengs and Corbus are grown by a man whose first language is Basque. This wine is the real deal. On the nose, you'll get the pineapple-y raciness characteristic of Jurancon but drier, more chiseled, and more petrol-y. The aromas almost veer toward those of crunchy, green fruits and fresh cut grass. The palate, unapologetically dry, offers plenty of richness with raw honey notes and a continuation of the pineapple-y raciness found on the nose. When you experience these grape varieties, it's easy to understand why they produce such great sweet wines, but that doesn't stop me from loving the dry versions best. -msb
white | 19 in stock | Organic | $26.99
 
Rhone

L'Anglore 2009 Tavel Rose

L'Anglore is a very special domaine in one of the best Rose appellations: Tavel. Vigneron Eric Pfifferling is a honey-maker who turned winemaker in 1988. He's passionate about biodynamism and eschews the use of all chemical treatments. He has a great love for traditional Rhone wines and began his domaine when he perceived that traditional Rhone wines were becoming extinct. This wine is a blend of Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, and Clairette, grown on soil that is covered in galets, the flat, smooth stones found in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This wine is "natural" in the best possible sense of the word, dark and opaque with yeasty notes notes on the nose mingling with cranberry and wild strawberry. Full-bodied and a bit tannic, this wine needs time in the decanter or a day open in your refrigerator to show its best. -msb
pink | 23 in stock | Natural | $23.99
 
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